Bread Baking Is A Science And An Interesting Hobby
February 4, 2021 at 9:14 p.m.
By Max [email protected]
I started out collecting recipes, reading cookbooks and watching a video provided by Great Courses. Amazingly, some of my early efforts encouraged me to continue and the cost is minimal. All it takes is patience, an understanding wife or husband, an oven, flour, yeast, water, salt, a baking stone and several mixing bowls.
Within minutes of blending yeast, flour, salt and water a fermentation process begins. (The salt enables the dough to hold carbon dioxide more efficiently and to add flavor.) Fermentation continues until the dough is baked and its internal temperature reaches about 122 degrees F, the thermal death point for yeast.
In essence, yeast enzymes break down the carbohydrates in the flour releasing simple sugars into the dough. As the yeast consumes the sugars, carbon dioxide forms making the bread rise. During this stage, the raw starchy flavors of the flours decrease. Aroma and flavor notes associated with other cooked or processed starches take their place. Midway through the first phase the dough displays notes of pasta or steamed potatoes. Then a yeasty character appears like that found in champagne. At a certain point the yeast activity levels off as more of the carbohydrates are broken down and the aromas and flavors of the digested starch evolve.
Two books for prospective bakers that are helpful include “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread” and “Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes.” My reading told me what makes bread so satisfying – the flavor and aroma. Characterizing the flavor and aroma of bread is a lot more complicated than merely baking it.
According to Chef Michael Kalanty, you can begin by merely tasting store brought bread – choose a few slices. Separate the crust from the crumb and set the crust aside.
Chew the sample 10-12 times and spread the flavors over your palate. Chew with mouth open, aerating the flavors as you chew. The more air in your mouth, the more flavor you get. Start by tasting for sourness, then try to identify the character of the sourness. Does it have a smooth, dairy quality, like yogurt, or a sharp tangy character? Focus as well on its dairy sweetness. It is not unusual to perceive an aroma of cow’s milk or butter. Then taste the crust, it should be dark, toasty and chewy. It is a study of contrasts when you sample the crust separately from the crumb.
There are a number of techniques bakers use. A simple one I learned from Great Courses is to mix 6-1/2 cups of bread flour (Gold Medal, Pillsbury or King Arthur), 3 cups of warm water (100 degrees F), a packet of dry yeast and 1 teaspoonful of kosher salt. Stir with a dough hook or wooden spoon until the flour is completely incorporated – just a few minutes.
Place dough in a large container and let stand for two hours, then refrigerate. The dough can be used for up to two weeks. When ready to bake, dust flour on the surface and remove a ball of dough (a scissors will help) the size of an orange or grapefruit. The dough can be used for baguettes, boules, rolls, flat breads, pizza, naams or pitas.
Shape the dough into a ball. You can incorporate spices, fruit, onions or garlic and olives to enhance the flavor depending on your taste requirements.
Remember to let the dough rest for about an hour and preheating the oven to 425 or 450 degrees F. Slash the surface with a serrated knife three or four times to allow gases to escape and include a container with hot water in the oven to increase the humidity. Bake for about 35 minutes.
Helpful Website
Michael Kalanty’s website includes a chart with the aroma and flavor notes for bread. For crumb, it is sweet/dairy, sour/fruity and sour/dairy. For the crust it is toasty, fruity, resinous, roasted or sweet. He also lists a number of descriptions for grain character and taste. See michaelkalanty.com.
Final Thoughts
Ken Forkish, in his book Flour Water Salt and Yeast finds that the most unique and important aspects of bread baking is its tactile nature. When he suggests mixing the dough by hand, he asks you to think of your hand as an implement. Mixing by hand is easier than using a mixer, is fully effective, and teaches you the feel of the dough. People have been mixing dough by hand for thousands of years. If our ancestors did it, so can we.
Max Sherman is a medical writer and pharmacist retired from the medical device industry. His new book “Science Snippets” is available from Amazon and other book sellers. It contains a number of previously published columns. He can be reached by email at [email protected].
I started out collecting recipes, reading cookbooks and watching a video provided by Great Courses. Amazingly, some of my early efforts encouraged me to continue and the cost is minimal. All it takes is patience, an understanding wife or husband, an oven, flour, yeast, water, salt, a baking stone and several mixing bowls.
Within minutes of blending yeast, flour, salt and water a fermentation process begins. (The salt enables the dough to hold carbon dioxide more efficiently and to add flavor.) Fermentation continues until the dough is baked and its internal temperature reaches about 122 degrees F, the thermal death point for yeast.
In essence, yeast enzymes break down the carbohydrates in the flour releasing simple sugars into the dough. As the yeast consumes the sugars, carbon dioxide forms making the bread rise. During this stage, the raw starchy flavors of the flours decrease. Aroma and flavor notes associated with other cooked or processed starches take their place. Midway through the first phase the dough displays notes of pasta or steamed potatoes. Then a yeasty character appears like that found in champagne. At a certain point the yeast activity levels off as more of the carbohydrates are broken down and the aromas and flavors of the digested starch evolve.
Two books for prospective bakers that are helpful include “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread” and “Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes.” My reading told me what makes bread so satisfying – the flavor and aroma. Characterizing the flavor and aroma of bread is a lot more complicated than merely baking it.
According to Chef Michael Kalanty, you can begin by merely tasting store brought bread – choose a few slices. Separate the crust from the crumb and set the crust aside.
Chew the sample 10-12 times and spread the flavors over your palate. Chew with mouth open, aerating the flavors as you chew. The more air in your mouth, the more flavor you get. Start by tasting for sourness, then try to identify the character of the sourness. Does it have a smooth, dairy quality, like yogurt, or a sharp tangy character? Focus as well on its dairy sweetness. It is not unusual to perceive an aroma of cow’s milk or butter. Then taste the crust, it should be dark, toasty and chewy. It is a study of contrasts when you sample the crust separately from the crumb.
There are a number of techniques bakers use. A simple one I learned from Great Courses is to mix 6-1/2 cups of bread flour (Gold Medal, Pillsbury or King Arthur), 3 cups of warm water (100 degrees F), a packet of dry yeast and 1 teaspoonful of kosher salt. Stir with a dough hook or wooden spoon until the flour is completely incorporated – just a few minutes.
Place dough in a large container and let stand for two hours, then refrigerate. The dough can be used for up to two weeks. When ready to bake, dust flour on the surface and remove a ball of dough (a scissors will help) the size of an orange or grapefruit. The dough can be used for baguettes, boules, rolls, flat breads, pizza, naams or pitas.
Shape the dough into a ball. You can incorporate spices, fruit, onions or garlic and olives to enhance the flavor depending on your taste requirements.
Remember to let the dough rest for about an hour and preheating the oven to 425 or 450 degrees F. Slash the surface with a serrated knife three or four times to allow gases to escape and include a container with hot water in the oven to increase the humidity. Bake for about 35 minutes.
Helpful Website
Michael Kalanty’s website includes a chart with the aroma and flavor notes for bread. For crumb, it is sweet/dairy, sour/fruity and sour/dairy. For the crust it is toasty, fruity, resinous, roasted or sweet. He also lists a number of descriptions for grain character and taste. See michaelkalanty.com.
Final Thoughts
Ken Forkish, in his book Flour Water Salt and Yeast finds that the most unique and important aspects of bread baking is its tactile nature. When he suggests mixing the dough by hand, he asks you to think of your hand as an implement. Mixing by hand is easier than using a mixer, is fully effective, and teaches you the feel of the dough. People have been mixing dough by hand for thousands of years. If our ancestors did it, so can we.
Max Sherman is a medical writer and pharmacist retired from the medical device industry. His new book “Science Snippets” is available from Amazon and other book sellers. It contains a number of previously published columns. He can be reached by email at [email protected].
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